Since they first appeared, I have wanted a 90 µ bag, but I knew my old bags would eventually wear out and I would need a new set. That day finally came and I ordered a new eight-piece one gallon set from Aqua Lab Technologies. Unlike other places I have ordered from in the past, the bags were in my hands in four days so I think we cleared up where to order from in the future.
My favorite thing on earth to medicate with is Tiny Bubble. Apollo-13 Red Crumble is more potent, but nothing hits as smooth as Tiny Bubble. It comes out the color of white beach sand and dries looking like caramel. If made properly, it completely disappears, leaving less residue than any strain I have seen. Unlike Apollo-13 bubble, which will cave-in both your lungs and your head, this strain makes bubble with a much more appealing taste and aroma and is easier to actually smoke without coughing your head off.
I taste a great deal of bubble hash and, in all my travels, I can easily remember each time I have tasted exceptional water hash. Once it was made by a friend of mine using an early-harvested ECSD that had gone hermaphrodite on him. This bubble was made based on one of my tutorials, but it was almost white in color and looked like a crack rock rather than something natural and organic.
The other was some made from Bubba Kush and it was absolutely amazing as well. I’ve learned that while technique is a huge part of making bubble, the type of resins collected can also make a huge difference in the end product. This bubble made from Tiny Bomb leaf turns almost clear when heat is applied and bubbles until it’s simply gone. It leaves very little residue.
In this section, I will detail the steps I use to make a large batch:
First we must discuss the collection of your sugar leaf. This is where many people fall short, mainly because of the way the product is marketed. While your bubble bags may turn trash to stash, if you want Full Melt Clear Dome Bubble Hash, take care when collecting your leaf material. I treat mine virtually like a food-grade ingredient. If I had bugs or mildew or even just a not-perfect harvest, I simply won’t make bubble with that type of material.
When trimming, I do so in two stages. In the first, I remove all the fan leaves and trim the tips off of all the trichome-encrusted leaf. I leave only heavily coated leaf on the buds and then I proceed to the second trim. I take a clean pan and slowly and deliberately trim all of that remaining leaf from the buds. I like to chop up any lowers not larger than my thumb as well, but again this is after cleaning off the raw leaf. I then make sure this pan is kept sanitary and allow it to reduce over night. I don’t call this drying because we do not want the leaf to be dry or it will crumble and contaminate your end product. Larger producers may want to separate and do their “trash” separately for marketing, but for head stash this is the only way, in my opinion.
I should also note that material harvested just a bit early tends to make better melt than plants left to full maturity. As the heads develop and turn amber, it seems more residue chemicals are formed.
After collecting, I store the leaf material in the freezer. That way, I can use it to make fresh bubble anytime.
Next, I clean the three one-gallon buckets I bought from a paint store and I get my Sham Wow out. Ice selection is more important than you might think. I like to use square cubes and break these up into shards using a hammer handle. Take your time and do this thoroughly.
Place the work bag (marked 220) in the bucket, folding the top over so it will fit on the refrigerator shelf when done mixing. Place about 3″ of the crushed ice into the bottom of the work bag, then about 2″ of reduced leaf which is about ½ a sandwich bag stuffed full, another layer of crushed ice, followed by a second layer of leaf, topped off with ice.
Next, we need to add water, but not just any water: it must be chilled so that is does not melt off the sharp edges we created by busting up the ice. I take a tray of cubes and mix it into the water, mixing well until it’s ice cold. Then, I pour it into the bucket carefully.
See the full Bubble Hash Gallery on Flickr
The bucket, now full, is shaken slightly to evenly distribute ice and plant material and then placed in the refrigerator to chill for 20 minutes. I then remove it, place it in the sink, and fold the sides of the bag upwards. Using a steel spoon, I briskly stir the mix for five minutes. When I get close to the end, I raise the bag, concentrating the ice and material in the bottom of the work bag so that I make sure to get all those yummy resin heads broken off. Once this task is complete, I allow the mix to settle for 20 minutes more.
Now, we strain it all through the first bag by lifting slowly and allowing it to drain. I will rinse the ice with a splash of water from my sink sprayer to flush the last bits downward. Once drained, we start the process of filtering the water through the different bags. The 160 µ bag removes large contaminants and I don’t even clean it out until I’m done making all the runs I’m going to make that day. The 120 µ bag catches some surprisingly amazing product with Tiny Bomb, a large resin head bearing plant, so this is actually quite a good size. Using the new 90 µ bag for the first time, I can see why it’s revered already; the color of this wet bubble has a nice clean look and light color. The final step I take on the first run is the 73 µ bag, which before the 90 µ came along we considered the cream of the crop.
I don’t use any other bags at this time, but I reuse the water in the next run and use the 45 µ bag to filter the water just before I am done using it. This low quality hash is used to put in cookies or tincture.
Next, I scoop the “sand” out of each bag and onto the pressing screen, but I do NOT press them at all. I blot the water out using a dry paper towel on the top and bottom of the pressing screen. Do not smash with weight, but simply press and let the moisture absorb outward. Then place the pressing screen in the freezer. This is the only way to work with resin this fresh, and it would almost be easier to make Bubble in a walk-in cooler. Someone should try it sometime. It only takes about 5-10 minutes before it is frozen solid and then you can remove the hash if you work fast. I like to place the product onto paper plates with a small piece of wax paper to prevent sticking. Now, wait until the piles both dry and cure. Do not touch them since they’re incredibly gooey and messy.
Some strains take longer to dry and remain tacky for days, but this bubble will only take a few days before it will start to crumble. After some time, I try to peel up the edge of each piece and flip it over so the bottom can dry. Eventually, it will lose is elasticity and crack when bent. This tells me it’s ready to place inside small, open glass jars to finish curing. Unlike bud, this will only take a few days and I personally prefer fresher bubble than when it’s turned to dust and powder. After a few weeks, it will start to lose its melt and continue the longer it sits. Bubble does not sit long around me.
Last but not least is clean up, and by that I mean take care of your bags! Don’t leave them wet or sticky and a make sure they’re clean before storing them. I have seen dirty, moldy bags affect the taste of primo bubble. I immediately pour a few inches of 91% rubbing alcohol into one of the buckets and turn each bag inside out rinsing the screens thoroughly until all debris is removed. I then wash the bags and hang-dry them separately overnight.
If quality is your goal, this is the best way I know to achieve it. I’ve had some really fine bubble made by machines and with larger bags but I have never smoked anything as pure as this concentrate. The one downside is that when I run out, it takes a few days before plain bud tastes good to me again. While smoking pure resin like this, I simply have no taste for bud and this lasts for a few days after I run out.
Call me “Mr. Bubble” – what can I say?
See the full Full Melt Bubble Gallery on Flickr